"Food in history" - 82nd Anglo-American conference of historians

"Food in history" - 82nd Anglo-American conference of historians

Institute of Historical Research, University of London
Senate House, London
United Kingdom
From - Until
11.07.2013 - 13.07.2013
Katja Castryck-Naumann, Verflechtung und Globalisierung, Leibniz-Institut für Geschichte und Kultur des östlichen Europa

From famine to feast, from grain riots to TV cookery programmes, dieting to domesticity, food features in almost every aspect of human societies since prehistoric times. At its annual summer conference in 2013 the Institute of Historical Research aims to showcase the best of current scholarly writing, research and debate on the subject. Our plenary lecturers include Ken Albala, Susanne Freidberg, Cormac Ó Gráda and Steven Shapin. The conference will include a publishers’ book fair, roundtable sessions and a policy forum.


Thursday 11 July
9.45am: Welcome from Professor Sir Adrian Smith, Vice-
Chancellor (University of London)

10.00 am: Plenary lecture
Chair: David Gentilcore (University of Leicester)
Ken Albala (University of the Pacific), Toward a historical
dialectic of culinary styles

11.15am: Parallel panel sessions
1. Another person’s poison: food and mysterious symptoms in historical perspective
Chair: Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)
Ian Miller (University College Dublin), A Dangerous, Revolutionary Force amongst Us’: Conceptualizing Working-Class Tea Drinking in the British Isles, c.1860-1900
Matthew Smith (University of Strathclyde), The pre-history of food allergy: idiosyncrasies in the nineteenth century
Clare Gordon (University of Glasgow), The Path to the Pure Food and Drug Act: American Food Adulteration and Contamination from 1850 to 1906

2. Cooking health: food and health in the 19th century Americas
Chair: Jennifer Wallis (Queen Mary, University of London)
Ilaria Berti (Università degli studi di Genova), ‘Eat sparingly of all kinds of fruit’
Bruna Gushurst-Moore (University of Plymouth), Gardens, foods, medicines: foods of the sickroom in nineteenth-century America
Deborah Levine (Providence College, Rhode Island), Therapeutic diets for pregnant women in maternity hospitals, 1880-1920

3. Dark secrets shared: chocolate, coffee and glocalisation 1: Transnational approaches
Chair: Margrit Schulte (Dusseldorf)
Margrit Schulte (Beerbühl), Transferring Sweet Secrets: Transnational connections in the European Chocolate Industry
Jonathon Morris (University of Hertfordshire), The espresso menu: an international history
Craig Sams (Chocolatier, Founder, Green & Blacks), The
failure of the industrial cocoa plantation model and
renaissance of the small producer 1980–2012 Ruben Quass (Bielefeld), Drinking Fair Trade Coffee,
Feeling Global Closeness?

4. Eating for victory: food production and consumption on the home front during the second world war
Chair: Cornelie Usborne (Roehampton University/ Institute of Historical Research)
John Martin (DeMontfort University), Potatoes
Debra Reid (Eastern Illinois University), Canned corn
Clare Griffiths (University of Sheffield), Rhubarb

5. Immigration, food and national identity
Chair: Peter Atkins (Durham University)
Maren Möhring (Centre for Contemporary History, Potsdam), Transnational Food: The Dönerkebab in Germany
Jernej Mlekuž (Slovenian Migration Institute), Not Just Food, but Food for Thought: A Short History of the Burek in Slovenia
Panikos Panayi (De Montfort University), Antisemitism, Poverty and Britishness: The Identity of Fish and Chips

6. Wild (and tame) food
Chair: Christopher Currie (Institute of Historical Research)
Robert Alexander Hearn (Universita degli Studi di Genova), Where the Wild Things Weren’t: the Re-wilding of Ligurian Culinary Landscapes, 1800-2012
Malcolm Thick, Rabbit production (and consumption) in Eighteenth Century LondonMalcolm Thick, Rabbit production (and consumption) in eighteenth-century London
Emma C Spary (University of Cambridge), The natural diet in eighteenth-century France, or, how to feed a wild child

12.45pm: Lunch
Food history collections and archives
Hannah Jenkinson (M&S Company Archive)
Polly Russell (British Library)
Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)

2.00pm: Parallel panel sessions
7. Food and the British empire in the 18th century
Chair: Christopher Currie (IHR)
Molly Perry (The College of William and Mary, Williamsburg), ‘Flowing Bowls and Bumping Glasses’: Raising Toasts, Declaring Loyalty, and Protesting in the British Empire
Lucy Dow (University College London), ‘Very Excellent Gingerbread’: Tracing the cultural influence of empire through eighteenth and nineteenth recipes for Gingerbread
Troy Bickham (Texas A&M University), The edible map of mankind: food, the enlightenment, and imperialism in Britain

8. Eating out
Chair: Carlos López Galviz (Institute of Commonwealth
Melissa Calaresu (Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge), Street food: Eating out in the early modern Italy
Marie-Adeline Guennec (Aix Marseille Université, France), Bibitur, estur quasi in popina : On food in Roman restaurants
Fernando Notario (Universidad Complutense de Madrid), Eating the Cynic way: anti-cuisine, food and social identity in late classical Greece

9. Dark secrets shared 2: chocolate, coffee and glocalisation: Comparative approaches
Chair: Jonathan Morris (University of Hertfordshire) Angelika Epple (University of Bielefeld), Chocolate and
the invention of quality
Yavuz Köse (University of Hamburg), Chocolate and
coffee in the late Ottoman empire and Turkish republic
Tatsuya Mitsuda (Keio University, Tokyo), Domesticating
chocolate in Japan, c.1920–1960
Merry White (Boston University), Coffee Japanese style

10. Feeding Britain in two world wars
Chair: Catherine Geissler (King’s College London)
Rachel Duffett (University of Essex), Sustaining the man at the front, 1914-1918
Peter Atkins (Durham University), What was the point of ‘British Restaurants’, 1940-1947?
Derek Oddy (University of Westminster), Nutrition policy in the two World Wars: myths and realities

11. Roundtable session
Emma Spary (Cambridge), Eating the Enlightenment: food and the sciences in Paris, 1670-1760 (University of Chicago Press, 2012)
Chair (and discussant): Colin Jones (Queen Mary, University of London)
Brian Cowan (McGill University)
Anne Murcott (University of Nottingham)

12. Food regimes (convened by History Lab)
Chair: Sara Pennell (Roehampton University)
Stef Eastoe (Birkbeck), ‘Keep them quiet and tranquil’: Exploring the role of food in the long-stay asylum
Bartley Rock (UCL/SEESS), ‘Making a strict distinction in the degree of need’: Aid allocation by the local authorities in Tambov province during the 1891-92 Russian famine
Sally Osborn (Roehampton University), Food as medicine: Diet drinks in the eighteenth-century recipe book

4.00pm: Plenary lecture
Chair: Barry Smith (Institute of Philosophy)
Steven Shapin (Harvard), You Are What You Eat: Historical Changes in Ideas about Food and Identity

Friday 12 July

9.30am: Parallel panel sessions

13. The food of the lower classes in late medieval England
Chair: Derek Keene (Centre for Metropolitan History/Institute of Historical Research)
Chris Dyer (University of Leicester), Wastel or treet? Buying daily bread in late medieval England
Umberto Albarella (University of Sheffield), Meat consumption in medieval England: the archaeological evidence from low status rural sites
Chris Woolgar (University of Southampton), From hochepot to chitterling: peasant cuisine in late medieval England

14. Drunkeness and early modern cultural change
Chair: Phil Withington (Sheffield University)
Tom Nichols (Glasgow University), Double vision: the ambivalent imagery of drunkenness in early modern Europe
Rebecca Earle (University of Warwick), Indians and Drunkenness in Colonial Spanish America
Angela McShane (Victoria & Albert Museum), A ‘Profane Sacrament’: Cups of Caritas in Seventeenth Century England

15. Class, gender and heritage in food consumption in North America
Chair: TBC
Janis Thiessen (Winnepeg), Canadian Snack Foods: Old Dutch Potato Chips and Hawkins Cheezies
Matthew Broker (North Carolina State University), Shifting Tides: Oysters and Social Class in Urban America
Laura Ishiguro (University of British Columbia), ‘Scramble and Gobble at the Camp Table’: Settler Colonial Narratives of Eating in a Global British Columbia, 1858-1914

16. Ethnicities of food in the mediterranean world
Chair: David Feldman (Birkbeck)
Mark Aloisio (University of Malta), Regulation, Manipulation and Anti-Jewish Rhetoric in the Meat Markets of Medieval Sicily
Alexander Chase-Levenson (Princeton University), Food, Sensation, and Exoticism in Nineteenth-Century British Narratives of Travel
Ronald Ranta (University College London), De-Arabising and Re-Arabising Israeli Food

17. Celebrity cooks
Chair: Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)
Jillian Adams (Central Queensland University), Betty Crocker and her Australian Lookalikes: America and Australian Post-War Culinary Culture
Lara Anderson (University of Melbourne), The emergence of Spanish culinary nationalism: Dr Thebussem and the king’s chef
Maggie Andrews (University of Worcester), Cooking Up a Performance: Fanny Craddock and Food Preparation in British Broadcasting

18. Fascism, food and the home front
Chair: Cornelie Usborne (Roehampton University/ Institute of Historical Research)
Kate Ferris (University of St Andrews), Constructing the empire’s home front: shopkeepers, housewives and the politics of food in fascist Venice during the Ethiopian War
Lisa Pine (Southbank University), Food in Nazi Germany: Consumption, Education and Propaganda in Peace and War
Simone C De Santiago Ramos (University of North Texas), Substitute Recipes in National Socialist Germany

11.30am: Parallel panel sessions

19. Food in archaeology: frontiers, translocations and transformations of foodstuffs
Chair: Alexandra Sapoznik (King’s College London)
Martin Jones (University of Cambridge), ‘Globalization’ of millets and other staple crops in Bronze Age Eurasia
Emma Lightfoot (The McDonald Institute for Archaeological Research)
Xinyi Liu (University of Cambridge)
Marijke van der Veen (University of Leicester), The contrasts between Roman and Islamic foodways in the Indian Ocean world, and the agricultural and culinarys innovations of the Islamic period

20. Roundtable session
Deborah Valenze (Barnard College, New York), Milk: a local and global history (Yale University Press, 2011)
Chair: Phil Withington
Frank Trentmann (Birkbeck)
Derek Oddy (University of Westminster)
Karen Hunt (Keele University)

21. New approaches to the transnational history of food and drink
Chair: Kelly Boyd (Institute of Historical Research)
Brian Cowan (McGill University), Café or Coffeehouse? Trans-national Histories of Coffee and Sociability
Brenda Assael (Swansea University), The Restaurant, Transnationalism and Food Cultures in Modern Britain
Marco Guidici (Bangor University), ‘A bridge across ethnic lines’: Italian cafes in Welsh popular culture and public history, 1980 to the present

22. Food and drink, living standards and identity: Japan in comparative context
Chair: Janet Hunter (LSE)
Penelope Francks (University of Leeds), Rice as Luxury: Food and Comparative Living Standards in Japan
Helen Macnaughtan (SOAS), Consuming Rice in Post-War Japan: The Electric Rice Cooker and Japanese Housewives
Harald Fuess (Heidelberg University), Beer as a transcultural commodity in Japan and East Asia

23. Roundtable session
Rebecca Earle (Warwick), The body of the Conquistador: food, race and the colonial experience in Spanish America, 1492-1700 (Cambridge University Press, 2012)
Linda Newson (King’s College London/ Institute for the Study of the Americas)
Barry Ife (Guildhall School of Music and Drama)
Rachel Berger (Concordia University)

24. Feasting and fasting
Chair: Adam Chapman (VCH/IHR)
James Hooper (King’s College London), Inflaming and Subduing the Body: The Role of Food and Denial in Late Antique & Early Medieval Eastern Asceticism
Stuart Palmer (University of Kent), The Fall and Rise of Fasting during the Early Reformation
Louise Carson (University of Nottingham), ‘For the honour of our nation’: new research on the sugar banquet at the court of Henry VIII
Heather Hess (Independent Art Historian/ Rutgers University, New Jersey), The Carcass, Civilized:Transforming Flesh into Meat at Seventeenth-Century German Banquets

1.00pm: LUNCH
Policy forum
The politics of food: past, present and future
Chair: Frank Trentmann (Birkbeck/Institute of Sustainable consumption, University of Manchester)
David Barling (Centre for Food Policy, City University)
Annabel Allott (Soil Association)
Keir Waddington (University of Cardiff) Craig Sams (Green & Blacks)

2.00pm: Plenary lecture
Chair: Derek Oddy (University of Westminster)
Susanne Friedberg (Dartmouth College), Moral economies and the cold chain

3.00pm: Parallel panel sessions

25. The cultural politics of food on south Asia
Chair: Rachel Berger
Rachel Berger (Concordia University, Montreal), ‘I can’t believe it’s not ghee: regulating food in late Colonial India’
Isaka Riho (University of Tokyo), Reconstructing culinary practices in colonial India: Cooks, memsahibs and the Indian middle class
Yamane So (Osaka University), A Study of the Sophisticated Terms in the Urdu Writings on Cuisine Culture under the British Raj

26. Food and national identity in modern Europe
Chair: Christina von Hodenberg (Queen Mary, University of London)
Jelena Ivanišević (Institute for Ethnological and Folklore Research), Civilising a brave new world: Croatian cooking and table manners in 1950′s
Nafsika Papacharalampous (SOAS), Invented traditions and national foods of Greece: the role of cookery books
Marta Sikorska (Nicolaus Copernicus University, Poland), German or Polish? A Nuremberg cookery book from 1671
Dorota Lewandowska (Nicolaus Copernicus University, Torun), Drinking like a Pole. Popular images of drinking habits in Poland from the early modern ages until the beginning of the 19th century

27. Wine in Roman Italy
Chairs: Geoffrey Kron (University of Victoria)
Wim Broekaert (University of Ghent), Efficiency-enhancing strategies in the Roman wine trade: from producer to consumer
Claire Holleran (University of Exeter), ‘With a single as, you can drink here; if you pay two asses, you will drink better; if you pay four asses, you will drink Falernian wine’ (CIL IV 1679, Pompeian graffito): the retailing of wine in Roman Italy
Paul Erdkamp (Vrije Universiteit Brussel), The consumption of wine in Roman Italy

28. Reconstructing historic loaves of bread: three periods, three methodologies, one quest
Chair: Ken Albala (University of the Pacific)
Samuel Delwen (Institute of Archaeology, London), Archaeology and the exploration of ancient bread
Richard Fitch (Historic Kitchens, Hampton Court Palace), Our Ech Day Bred – Bread in the late medieval & early post medieval period
William Rubel (Independent scholar), Take 2 Spoonfuls of New Barm – A Dictionary of British, French, and American Baking Terms circa 1550 to 1880

29. Hunger and politics
Chair: James Lees (IHR)
John Bohstedt (University of Tennessee, Knoxville), The Politics of Provisions: The Food Riots of 2007-08 in Historical Contexts
Brodie Waddell (Birkbeck), The Politics of Hunger and the Revolution of 1688

30. War and hunger in the Soviet Union
Chair: Adriana Turpin (IESA)
Elisaveta Khatanzeiskaya, Food Resources, Starvation and Death in the Wartime Arckangelsk (1941 – 1945)
Mikhail Suprun (The Northern Arctic Federal University, Arkhangelsk), Food Lend-Lease Aid to Russia during The Second World War
Pavel Vasilyev (St. Petersburg Institute of History of the Russian Academy of Sciences),Reassessing the Black Market in Food and Food Cards in Besieged Leningrad (1941-1944)

5.00pm: Plenary lecture
Chair: Matthew Davies (CMH/IHR)
Cormac O’Grada (University College Dublin), Famine is not the problem: an historical perspective

Saturday 13 July

9.30am: Parallel panel sessions

31. Food economics
Chair: Adam Chapman (VCH/IHR)
Birgit Ricquier (Royal Museum for Central Africa, Belgium), Kongo Cuisine and the Columbian Exchange: Lexical Evidence for Culinary Transformations at the West-Central African Coast, and Beyond
Laura Prosperi (Università degli Studi di Milano), Beyond common places: criminal power and the Italian food chain

32. Baffling innovations: exploring the role of new foodways in the 19th and 20th centuries
Chair: Rachel Rich (Leeds University)
Nelleke Teughels (Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium), Small Grocery Stores Become Big Business: Delhaize Frères & Cie and the Modernisation of the Traditional Corner Shop
Willem Scheire (Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium), Innovations in Food Preservation: The Domestic Refrigerator in Europe
Olivier de Maret (Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium), Setting a Trend? Italian Food Businesses in Late-Nineteenth-Century Brussels

33. Potatoes, bread and biscuits: environmental change and industrialisation in British food, 1790-1950
Chair: Laurel Sefton MacDowell (University of Toronto)
David Fouser (University of California, Irvine), From Abernethys to Zoologicals: Industry, Environment, and Culture in British Biscuits, 1830-1914
Chris Otter, White Bread Britain: Wheat, Technology and Globalization 1850-1950
David Zylberberg (York University), Potatoes, Broths and Wheaten Breads: Fuel Prices and Yorkshire Regional Diets, 1790-1830

34. Governing food, 1945-70
Chair: Shane Hamilton (University of Georgia)
Chris Deutsch (University of Missouri), ‘One Line of Defense against the Spread of Foreign Contagious Disease’: Regulating Industrial Beef in California, 1945 to 1960
Josie Freear (University of Leeds), Exploring the role of government policy and regulation in shaping the British diet from 1947
Megan Elias (Queensborough Community College), Counterculture Cuisine in the 1970s

35. Food and drink in the Georgian workhouse
Chair: Tim Hitchcock (University of Hertfordshire)
Jeremy Boulton, & Romola Davenport (Newcastle University/University of Cambridge),Food, drink and diet in the Georgian Workhouse: St Martin in the Fields, 1725-1830
Susannah Ottaway (Carleton College), Food and the Eighteenth-Century Workhouse
Graham Butler (Newcastle University), ‘The Necessities of life’? Food and drink in the Georgian workhouse: Newcastle-upon-Tyne c.1740-1834

36. Food, famine and war in modern Ireland
Chair: Catherine Delano-Smith (Queen Mary, University of London)
Bryce Evans (Liverpool Hope University), ‘The Most Important Thing in the World’: Food and its Role in Global Conflict
Ian Miller (University College Dublin), Did Ireland nearly starve during the First World War?
Charles Read (Christ’s College, Cambridge), Hunting for Giffen Goods in 1840s Irish Market Data

11.30am: Parallel panel sessions

37. The appliance of science
Chair: Kelly Boyd (Institute of Historical Research)
Robert M Hutchings (Carnegie Mellon University), Demands of Domesticity: Why Americans Drank Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice in the 1950s
Tani Mauriello (University of Oxford), If Vacuums Meant ‘More Work for Mother’, Did Dishware Mean Less Food For Mother? The relationship between an increased material standard of living and nutritional inequality for women in nineteenth-century Britain
Helen Peavitt (Science Museum, London), From the daily pint to ‘Jamaican jiggers’: repositioning the domestic refrigerator within the home

38. National health campaigns
Chair: Sunil Amrith (Birkbeck)
Angela Davis (University of Warwick), The resurgence in
breastfeeding: infant feeding in Britain, c.1945–2000
Caroline Durand (Trent University, Canada), Cooking for
the French-Canadian nation: governing with nutrition
in the province of Quebec, 1900–1945
Jane Hand (University of Warwick), From ‘look after
yourself’ to ‘look after your heart’: the role of nutrition
and consumerism within health education in the UK,

39. Fast food
Chair: TBC
Cory Bernat (Corcoran College of Art & Design, Washington DC), Plastics and Food Culture
Carolyn Cobbold (University of Cambridge), How a new chemical palette of dyes coloured the palate of an industrialising nation
Tom Scott-Smith (University of Oxford), The rise of emergency feeding: technological foodstuffs in disaster and war, 1914-2013

40. Alimentary advice in late medieval and early modern Europe
Chair: Adam Chapman (VCH/IHR)
Lucinda Byatt (University of Edinburgh), Florentine Treatises on Food and Household Management in mid-sixteenth century Rome
Sarah Peters Kernan (The Ohio State University), Social Aspirations and the New Audience for Cookeries in Late Medieval England
Sarah Fox (University of Manchester), ‘The Usual Cheer’: the role of food in early modern childbirth

41. Food and the Victorians
Chair: Lynne Walker (IHR)
Rachel Rich (Leeds Trinity), Mealtimes and domesticity: Victorian women and the shape of the day
Lucy A Bailey (University of Northampton), Squire, shopkeeper and staple food: The reciprocal relationship between the village shop and the country house in the early nineteenth century
Rebecca Ford (University of Nottingham), The Watercress Girl and the Watercress Garden: Cultural Landscapes of Watercress in the 19th-century

42. Godly food
Chair: TBC
Michael Kauffmann (Courtauld), Imagery of food in the Bible
Allison D Fizzard (University of Regina), ‘A Competent Mess’: Food and Retirement at Religious Houses in England and Wales, c. 1485-1540
Katherine Harvey (Birkbeck), Food, Drink and the Episcopal Body

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